Processing of wool and its speciality as fibre for garment manufacture.

Wool Production and Raw Material

The journey of wool from fleece to fabric begins with shearing, typically done annually. The raw fleece contains impurities like dirt, grease (lanolin), and vegetable matter. The yield of wool from a sheep varies based on breed and age; a mature sheep can yield around 2-5 kilograms of wool.

Processing of Wool: Stages Involved

The processing of wool involves several stages:

• Scouring: This is the cleaning process where lanolin and other impurities are removed using detergents and water. The lanolin extracted is a valuable byproduct used in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.
• Carding: The scoured wool is then carded, a process that disentangles the fibres and aligns them parallel to each other, forming a thin web.
• Combing (for long wool): Long wool fibres like Merino wool undergo combing to remove short fibres (noils) and further align the long fibres, producing a smoother, stronger yarn.
• Spinning: The carded or combed wool is spun into yarn by twisting the fibres together. The thickness and tightness of the yarn depend on the desired fabric properties.
• Weaving/Knitting: The yarn is then woven or knitted into fabric.
• Finishing: The fabric undergoes finishing processes like dyeing, washing, and sometimes treatments to improve its handle, crease resistance, or water repellency.

Speciality of Wool as a Fibre for Garment Manufacture

Wool possesses several unique properties that make it a desirable fibre for garment manufacturing:

• Warmth: Wool's crimped structure traps air, providing excellent insulation.
• Breathability: Despite its warmth, wool allows moisture to escape, preventing overheating and keeping the wearer comfortable.
• Elasticity: Wool fibres have a natural elasticity, allowing garments to stretch and recover their shape.
• Durability: Wool fibres are strong and resilient, making garments long-lasting.
• Natural Flame Resistance: Wool is inherently flame-resistant, a significant safety advantage.
• Wrinkle Resistance: The elasticity of wool fibres contributes to wrinkle resistance.
• Absorbency: Wool can absorb a significant amount of moisture (up to 30% of its weight) without feeling damp.

However, wool also has some drawbacks:

• Cost: Wool is generally more expensive than many synthetic fibres.
• Shrinkage: Wool can shrink when washed if not handled properly.
• Scratchiness: Some wool types can feel scratchy against the skin, although finer wools like Merino are very soft.
• Moth Susceptibility: Wool is susceptible to damage from moths if not properly stored.

Comparison with Other Fibres

Property	Wool	Cotton	Silk	Polyester
Warmth	Excellent	Moderate	Moderate	Poor
Breathability	Excellent	Good	Excellent	Poor
Elasticity	High	Low	Moderate	Low
Durability	High	Moderate	High	Very High
Cost	High	Low	High	Low

Government Initiatives and Schemes

The Indian government supports the wool industry through various schemes. The National Wool Development Board (NWDB) plays a crucial role in promoting wool production, processing, and marketing. The Integrated Wool Production Programme aims to improve the productivity and quality of wool.

Case Study: The Merino Wool Industry in Australia

Australia is the world's largest producer of Merino wool. The Merino sheep breed, known for its fine and soft wool, has been carefully bred over generations. The Australian wool industry has faced challenges, including fluctuating prices and competition from synthetic fibres. However, it has adapted by focusing on high-quality, sustainable wool production and developing innovative wool products for niche markets. The industry has also embraced traceability and certification schemes to assure consumers of the wool's origin and quality. This demonstrates the importance of adapting to market trends and consumer demands in the wool industry.